18. Umbria
Tagliatelle with truffles
In Umbria, it feels as if everything good to eat comes from the woods. Game such as cinghiale (wild boar) works its way into every course -- except dessert, of course. Then there's the fungus. The black truffle grows just below ground level in deciduous forests all over the region.
Still more prized is the tartufo bianco (white truffle) that appears around Gubbio in late autumn. The town's Taverna del Lupo (Via Ansidei 6, Gubbio; +39 075 9274368) handles it skilfully.
The dish itself could hardly be simpler. Simply toss fresh, handmade pasta strands with a little butter and some grated Parmigiano to taste, and as much truffle as you're allowed.