The rise of Mexico City
Mexico City hosts a young, vibrant dining scene with a growing middle class.
In 2014, Olvera opened his first venture in the United States: Cosme, a Mexican restaurant in New York City. The venue, which was booked for months upon opening, serves a duck carnitas for two, flanked with made-in-house corn tortillas that can be fashioned into tacos at the table.
The recent rise of Mexico City as a cosmopolitan node on par with New York City or Tokyo has been swift.
Declining crime, a vibrant art scene and tiptop nightlife have all helped. And, to an extent, Pujol has too.
The city hosts a young, pulsing dining scene with Japanese izakayas, craft cocktails and American BBQ restaurants all frequented by a growing middle class. Nevertheless, the majority of the country is fueled by stews, corn tortillas and Coca Cola.
Few Mexico City residents can afford to eat at Pujol or even know what it is, but that doesn't stop Olvera from feeling a burden of responsibility about his food.