Olvera: "I want Mexican food to keep moving."
"Tacos are so natural to us that I don't even think we think about them," Olvera explains. "If you have rice in a market, they will give you a tortilla and you'll make yourself a taco. If you are at home and you have a nopal salad, you put it into a tortilla and make yourself a taco.
"You can even make tacos out of things that are not Mexican. The way we eat is in tacos."
Eating tacos is a daily rite for most Mexico City residents: an experience as much about the atmosphere, the street corner, the strangers eating next to you, as it is about the actual product.
"Most of the time you actually get better tacos in the streets than in the restaurants. That's why we put so much attention because we know it's really hard to get a taco in a restaurant that can compete with a taco from the street."
Olvera's tacos are tacos in the sense that they feature a tortilla with a filling on a plate, but that's where the similarities to street food end.
At Pujol there are tacos with suckling lamb in a fragrant avocado leaf adobo and tacos with braised pork on a smoked tortilla with coriander, red jalapeño and chickpea puree.