The food of Jeju island, off the southern coast, is quite different from that found on the mainland. There are more fresh vegetables, and almost no spice at all.
The island is home to its own unique dishes, including mom-guk -- a simple pork and seaweed soup. Mom-guk seems to writhe like a trapped serpent inside the bowl as it bubbles, squirms and hisses in front of you.
It is an unimaginable soup. Steamy green vapors rise like seaborne butterflies from the cauldron on your table. It's emerald, complex and divine. And, for me at least, it was the single biggest revelation on my journey around Korea.
Jeju Tosok 제주 토속, Ido-1dong, Bosung Traditional Market (City Hall), Jeju City, South Korea; +82 64 758 8948