The White House restaurant in the town of Naju, in South Korea's southeast, belongs to a disappearing, yet gloriously alive, breed of restaurants.
It's a stubborn old boot that has rejected change. Beef steam hisses from the entrance to the kitchen, where seven women in blue aprons work the gomtang soup vats, rice steamers, cutting boards, kitchen sink and serving trays.
An ajumma (middle-aged woman) with rubber gloves, a perm, an uninviting glare and a shower cap ladles the soup from one of two humungous, three-foot-wide vats.
The beef in gomtang is cooked very simply and slowly, resulting in a clean beef broth. Inside the hot stone bowl, the soup contains beef brisket, rice, spring onion, and thin, noodle-like egg strips.
White House (하얀집), 48-17 Jungang-dong, Naju, Jeollanam-do, South Korea; +82 61 333 4292