Geum-Ak Kalguksu is a tumbledown restaurant down an alley in downtown Gangneung, on South Korea's east coast.
It's a one-dish joint, and that dish is kalguksu -- a thick, fiery noodle soup that drips delicious violence. Diners sit in 6- by 9-foot cabins with rickety sliding wooden doors. The walls and roof were once white, but now every inch of space is covered in graffiti.
Rough-cut, slimy, thick buckwheat noodles poke through a surface speckled with seaweed and sesame seeds.
Old, basic restaurants like Geum-Ak Kalguksu used to be everywhere in Korea but they are fast disappearing today.
Geum-Ak Kalguksu, 12-6, Daehak-gil, Gangneung, Gangwon-do, South Korea