Reply to "Chef Enrique Olvera redefines Mexican food"

One of the cornerstones of Pujol is a pantry of native ingredients like heirloom varieties of corn, wild greens, obscure chilies, and insects -- staples that people have relied on for centuries but receive little fanfare.

With this arsenal, the strong, indigenous roots of Mexican cuisine play out in new ways at Pujol. But referencing the past can be tricky.

"It's extremely challenging to try to work with tradition because dishes that are traditional are so well made," suggests Olvera, "That's why they become traditional, right?"

So putting a taco course on his tasting menu was especially loaded. In Mexico, tortillas are the bread of the nation and tacos the main dish.

So putting a taco course on his tasting menu was especially loaded. In Mexico, tortillas are the bread of the nation and tacos the main dish.